Renting an Apartment in Ghana: What I Learned from Renting Two Apartments in Accra
Renting an apartment in Accra, isn’t for the fainthearted.
One thing I’ve learned about myself over the years is that I prefer living in ordinary Ghanaian neighborhoods rather than expat enclaves. That’s where I experience Ghana most deeply.
When I first started visiting Ghana, I stayed with friends in Achimota, the people I now fondly call my Ghana family. At the time, they lived in a pleasant residential estate not far from Achimota Mall, and for several years, whenever I visited Ghana, I stayed with them.
Achimota where I stayed, quickly became one of my favorite parts of Accra. It was a walker’s dream, with mature shade trees, flowering gardens, neighborhood café, and friendly greetings from people walking or driving by. I could walk to the mall, banks, pharmacies, markets, and easily flag down a taxi whenever I needed one.
More importantly, it felt like a real Ghanaian neighborhood. I wasn’t just visiting Ghana, I was living in it, even if only temporarily. That mattered to me. Living there gave me the kind of everyday cultural immersion I value far more than staying in an expat enclave.
Why I Needed an Apartment
One year, my nieces would be visiting me in Ghana for the entire summer. At the time, I was already in Ghana, and my sister was traveling to Ghana to drop them off, stay two weeks, and then return to the States. I would travel back to the States with my two nieces two months later.
So that meant that I had to find an apartment because my friend’s house wasn’t big enough to accommodate us all – me, my nieces, my sister, and a good family friend who would also be joining us from Nigeria.
Looking back, finding an apartment turned out to be far more challenging than I expected, but it also taught me a great deal about renting in Ghana.
So, the search began. At first, my friend and I drove around the estate and neighborhoods around the estate, keeping a look out for apartments or houses for lease (to let) signs nearby.
That was our first method of looking for accommodation, and as you can probably imagine, it was not a successful approach.
Next, we asked around and people would say, okay, there’s a house here, there’s a house there. We’d arrange to see some of the apartments through some go-between representative or friend or relation of the owner. Well, that wasn’t that successful either.
It’s not easy to do it that way, and you have to be very careful when you do things that way because you don’t know what you’re getting at all. We actually had no clue.
Finding the Right Real Estate Agent
The next best thing was to obtain the services of a bonafide, reputable real estate agent, and by that, I mean an agent who helps clients locate apartments and houses to lease or buy.
The first agent we found did not really work out. In fact, he was more unavailable than available and did not return calls in a timely manner.
The next agent was someone recommended by my friend’s nephew who personally knew the agent. He was good and worked hard on our behalf.
He took us (my Ghanaian friend and I) around to see several apartments and we had the opportunity to go inside many apartments he thought I would like, based on an initial conversation we’d had about my preferences.
Some of the apartments were too small or they were not finished the way I like my living space to be finished. Eventually, we found a suitable place in the Tantra Hills neighborhood. But it was only available for about three or four months because the apartments in the building were reserved for foreign students going to a nearby university. The apartment was available because most of the students had vacated for the academic break.
We met the owner and that’s when I found out that I had to pay all three or four months’ rent up front. This came as a surprise to me. I was used to the way rent is paid in the U.S. – on a monthly basis.
The apartment was quite nice, large, and airy with scenic views of hills in the distance. Three bedrooms and three bathrooms, and a medium-sized kitchen with a large pantry.
One problem. It came unfurnished and because of that we had to buy almost everything ourselves – beds, sofas, tables, chairs, a refrigerator, stovetop, microwave, cookware, dishes, curtains, and even have curtain rods installed above every window. Luckily, there were ceiling fans in several rooms. But we still bought extra standing fans.
Everything went well, initially, but after two or three weeks, the water pressure became weaker and weaker until it was just a trickle and then nothing. We were on the 3rd floor, so we thought it was a problem with the water getting all the way up. When we let the landlord know, his response was that he would send someone over to go see what’s wrong with the water tank, and, and in the meantime, we should go to the apartment next door and collect water in buckets. He arranged to have the door to the empty adjacent apartment unlocked so we could enter at will.
Do you know how difficult it is to carry buckets of water up and down, and across hallways just to flush toilets, wash dishes, and bathe? It was just a mess, and it took almost until it was time for us to vacate to get the matter resolved. The idea of issuing us a refund was out of the question according to the landlord.
That wasn’t all. Another thing that happened was that moisture in the walls caused the paint to crumble in many areas of each room. When we first moved into the apartment, it had been freshly painted. Within a month, wall paint was crumbling in several rooms.
We brought it to the attention of the owner, but it took a long time for it to even be acknowledged. By then I was beginning to worry. How safe was the building?
The main reason I leased that apartment was because of the proximity to my friend’s house. However, I knew that I had to get another apartment at the end of four months. I needed to have somewhere to put all the furniture and appliances we’d had to buy, to furnish that apartment.
Plus, knowing that I would be back to Ghana time and time again, the idea of having an apartment of my own began to look better and better. When any other family members want to visit Ghana, they would also have a place to stay.
Once my lease in Tantra Hills was up, I would lease another apartment. It had taken some time to find the first apartment, so we decided to start looking for another place long before the lease ran out.
Finding a Place That Felt Like Home
So, I said, okay, I’ll find another apartment and lease it for a year. By now, I knew that landlords typically ask for one or two years rent up front. Once again, we had our agent looking out for something more permanent for me.
I didn’t want to live in a place and spend too much money on accommodation that I would not be living in for at least half the year or more.
I prefer to live more like locals live, so I wasn’t too interested in living in areas such as East Legon, Airport Residential, Cantonments, Osu area, and other areas where a lot of expats live, behind gated… yards and whatnot.
I wanted to live in an authentically Ghanaian neighborhood. I have a certain vibe, I like airy spacious places, and preferably not on the first floor. Clean, secure. My agent found such a place. This time our agent worked with the landlord’s agent. We had to work with two agents to find that place.
When the agent said, I’ve found the one you are really going to love. He was right. I loved it.
I loved the neighborhood which was greener, quieter and a lot less busy than Accra. The apartment was situated in an enclosed manicured compound where the owner’s family lived in a unit below mine – husband, wife, three young children, and a nanny.
Four bedrooms and three complete bathrooms. Very nice, with a huge kitchen, a spacious living room, separate dining room, and a balcony where I sat outside in the mornings to greet the day. Just a real neighborhood feel.
We had to meet the owner’s manager. In fact, that meeting felt more like an interview for the owner to determine whether we would be good tenants. At the same time, we got an idea of if the owner was a good fit for me.
The fact that the owner’s daughter and family lived below me gave me a greater sense of security, because if the owner was okay with her family members living in the building in that area, then it was okay for me too.
They were kind people and several months after I had moved in, the kids downstairs felt comfortable and at home hanging out in my apartment some evenings after school, watching TV, doing jigsaw puzzles, reading and playing on my keyboard. I loved hearing them downstairs getting ready for school in the morning, and the gate clanging as their mom drove them off to school.
I loved that the apartment building was in a walled compound with an elegant rock and flower garden and the gate was locked at night. I liked the fact that I could walk around the neighborhood with ease, and could easily get a taxi, or Bolt (ride-share). Transportation options abounded.
I could walk to the main roads, neighborhood kiosks, and around residential streets. Banks, all sorts of businesses, markets, groceries, bakery, clothing stores, and restaurants were all conveniently located. So that worked out perfectly. Plus, in the evenings during rainy season, a cool breeze from the ocean in the distance, kept the apartment cool.
Like any home in Ghana, there were occasional power outages and the odd maintenance issue, but compared with my first apartment, they felt like minor inconveniences rather than major problems.
Why I Eventually Gave Up My Apartment
My beautiful apartment cost about US$350 per month, paid one year in advance. For what I received, it was an excellent value. I kept that apartment for three years even though sometimes I was only in the country for about two, three, or sometimes up to 5 months a year. I decided not to renew it for a fourth year when I realized I wasn’t sure of the next time I returning to Ghana and how long I would be staying.
Additionally, my Ghana family had, by this time, built a large house just outside Accra, and were now much further away. They had a room that was designated for me whenever I wanted to visit, and for as long as I wanted to stay. Staying with them is always like staying in my home away from home. What was the point of spending money on rent and being so far away the people I consider family? Still, it was bittersweet giving up my apartment.
Seven Lessons I Learned About Renting in Accra
I couldn’t have done it on my own. It took a while to find an agent that I and my Ghana friend could put our trust in and feel confident of his honesty, professionalism and knowledge of the areas.
Work with a Recommended Agent
If you’re looking for apartment, use the services of a reputable, experienced real estate agent that comes recommended, preferably by someone who knows, and has worked with the agent in the past.
Visit Properties with Someone You Trust
When you go apartment hunting, go with a trusted, local Ghanaian you know and trust, or an expat friend or acquaintance who has lived in Ghana for at least three years. The fact is, as a foreigner you are most likely to be charged more. Going with someone who knows the ropes will mitigate some of that.
Think Carefully About Location
Choose the area you want to live in carefully because it will make a big difference. As I wrote about in my article about the cost of living in Ghana, housing can range anywhere from $300 a month to $2000 and more a month, depending on location, amenities, and type of accommodation apartment, size of apartment, or whether it’s a house.
I leased my beautiful, spacious apartment for $350 a month, and it was located in a suburb of Accra, instead of centrally in the city. It was also not in an expat neighborhood, which generally speaking, is where apartments are a lot more expensive. It was quite a good deal for such a wonderful apartment.
Read the Lease Carefully
Make sure you check out the premises very well. Look for potential issues, such as damp spots, water issues, light switches and fixtures, ceiling fans, etc. Find out what comes with the apartment, and how much you’re going to rent it for, and how much will you have to pay upfront. Most of the time, you will not have the option of paying month by month. Get a printed copy of the lease agreement and take a day or two to read over the agreement very carefully before signing.
Expect to Pay Rent Up Front
In my experience most landlords ask for one, two, or even three years rent in advance, though it’s illegal to do so. There are indications that this situation will improve, but for now, this law is not strictly enforced.
Consider Whether You Really Need a Long-Term Lease
If you’re not going be in the country, year-round, consider leasing a short-term rental, such as Airbnb, or short-term apartment instead. There are many of those in Accra. You can rent the apartment for the number of months that you need it for. Remember to take someone local with you in your short-term rental search
Shop Around
Apartments in the same area may cost the same but differ widely in terms of amenities, security, and value for the money. So definitely take a look around.
No Regrets & Lessons Learned
Looking back, I don’t regret renting either apartment.
My first apartment taught me patience, flexibility, and that things don’t always work the way you expect in another country.
My second apartment gave me something much more valuable than comfortable accommodation. It gave me a neighborhood, familiar faces, children laughing downstairs after school, and the feeling that, for a little while, I had a place I could truly call home.
Both apartments taught me far more about living in Ghana than I could ever have learned from staying with friends or in a hotel.
If you’re thinking about renting in Accra, I hope my experiences help you avoid a few surprises, and perhaps encourage you to look beyond the obvious choices Sometimes the place that feels most like home isn’t the most expensive neighborhood or the newest apartment. Sometimes it’s simply the place where everyday life quietly invites you in.
Continue Your Ghana Journey
If you’re planning a move to Ghana or a longer stay, these articles may also help:
- Moving to Ghana After 50 – A complete guide for women considering relocation.
- The Cost of Living in Ghana – What to expect for housing, food, transportation, and everyday expenses.
- The Night Ghana Began to Feel Like Home – The moment Ghana stopped feeling like a destination and started feeling like home.
- Do I Need a Retirement Residence Permit for Ghana? – A reflection on living, visiting, and staying flexible at 70.
If you enjoy reflections and articles like this, you’re welcome to join me.
I share thoughtful notes on writing, travel, and living fully – by email and at a pace that allows us to breathe.
